I have successfully installed the
Audiovox CCS-100 vacuum cruise control on two K1100LTs, four
K1100RSs, three K100RS4Vs, six K75s, a K100 and a K1 as well
as helping a few local riders with their
installs. If you plan on putting any serious miles on any K
then this is a "must have" in my book.
You may have stumbled across my original write-up
on The "IBMWR K
Bike How To's" that I did back in 2005 or one of a
couple of other versions floating around cyberspace.
All of my previous write-ups are now obsolete and should be ignored in lieu of this most
Longer Available." This is
and isn't true. While it is true that Audiovox no longer
manufactures and sells them, that doesn't mean you can't get
your hands on one. There's a ton of "new"
ones floating around out there as people tend to buy items
like this but never get around to installing them and will
eventually sell them on Craig's List or Fleabay when
cleaning out the garage.
Consumption: As a vacuum cruise control servo, the
power for pulling the throttle is from the vacuum "borrowed"
from the throttle bodies pulling against a diaphragm
attached to the cable. Due to this, the CCS-100's power
requirements are small since the only power it needs is
enough to open/close a valve and the very minimal power
required for digital processing. This is confirmed by the
fact that it comes with only a three amp fuse. Therefore,
running this on a pre-94 K bike with a 32 amp alternator
should not be an issue.
reserve canister is not necessary. When I did my
first install, everything I found for installing the CCS-100
on a motorcycle said you needed a VRC. This isn't true for K
since removed the VRC from my K1100LT and have not used one
on any of my subsequent installs.
There are many
ways to skin a cat. But
I'm not a Chinese cook so I wouldn't know about that. This
is how I do these installs and what works for me. If you
want to do it differently then go right ahead.
Items You'll Need
(Part EX130-RR or PTA2022) - Posi-Taps are light
years beyond the old ScotchLok connectors for tapping into
wires. ScotchLoks are flimsy and often cut through the wire
you're tapping into. I had to repair one of the coil leads
on my K1100LT because I hadn't heard of Posi-Taps when I did
my first CCS-100 install and the ScotchLok cut almost all of
the way through the wire. There's a variety of on-line
sellers of Posi-Taps and there's also a guy on
Fleabay who sells them and ships VERY quickly.
Posi-Locks (Part number PL1824) or Posi-Twists (Part number
PT2026 or PT1424) Or some blade connectors. The
electrons don't know the difference but I'm a fan of Posi-
products since they're easy to use and seem to hold up well.
"Universal" vacuum check valve - the NAPA part number
is 730-1347. You can also find these under the "HELP!" brand
at other auto parts stores. They can also be found on
Fleabay. It's a generic item that looks like this:
Tubing: Long sections of this can be cut to the right
length for bundling and routing wiring. It comes in various
diameters. Use the diameter that's appropriate for the
number of wires that you need to follow the same path. (You
don't need to shrink it when using it for this purpose.) If
you live near a Fry's
Electronics they usually have a good selection of four
foot long heat shrink tubing in stock.
McMaster-Carr is a good online resource. Don't bother
trying at Radio Shack as they only carry 6" lengths at their
Prepping The Servo Control Unit
a) (if you
plan to use a K1100LT windscreen switch) Trim the
brown wire from the
servo wiring harness and solder it to the
red wire. Then
cover that up with a layer or two of heat shrink tubing. The
brown wire is the power wire for the servo unit. The
wire is supposed to go to the "hot" wire to the brake switch
but since that's just switched power on a K bike then any
switched power wire (many of them are green/black on a K
bike) will do. This has the added benefit of not having a
brown 12V+ wire on a bike where all of the other brown wires
(If you're not into soldering
then this might also be a good place to use another Posi-Tap
to connect the brown wire to the red wire.)
When you wire up the servo this
way the cruise control will turn on automatically when you
turn the bike on. The eliminates one wire that you have to
connect and eliminates the need to turn the cruise control
on every time you want to use it. When I get to the section
on control switch options you'll understand why I wire
things up this way.
There's a pair of gray and
black wires that join each other in a black sleeve coming
from the servo wiring harness connector. Cut those off at
the connector. Those are for the speedometer sensor. The CCS-100
will work off of those if you tap them into the K bike
speedometer sensor wires (and set DIP switch #3 to ON) but
since you have to hook up the coil wire anyhow (to detect
surges - it's a safety feature of the CCS-100) and it's just
another set of connections to potentially fail, my
preference is to just run the CCS-100 off of the coil
Remove the wiring cover from the servo (two small Phillips
screws) and remove the small black plastic jumper. This
tells the CCS-100 that you have a manual transmission:
Now it's time to set the DIP switches using the settings
circled in red below. I've left the sensitivity switches
uncircled because different K bikes work better on different
settings. Low (4 ON, 5 OFF) seems to work best for a K1100RS
while medium(4 OFF, 5 OFF) seems to work best for the other
K bikes. You can always experiment with the switches later
to see what works best for your situation. It comes down to
a trade-off between how responsive the servo is to minor
speed variations and how jerky it is when the throttle is
pulled by the servo. What you're actually adjusting is how
hard the servo pulls on the throttle with low being less and
high being more.
Switches 1 & 2 are set to
4,000 Pulses/Mile if you're controlling the CCS-100 from
the coil signal. If you choose to control it from the
speedometer sensor signal then you need to set these to
set these for 5,000 PPM for a K bike. You also need to
set SW3 to ON.
whatever reason, most cruise control units won't engage
under 30 MPH or so. When using the coil signal to
control the CCS-100, it does not know how fast you're
going, only the RPMs. Therefore, I can set my
cruise control at 25 MPH in a low gear. I find this to
be handy when going through small "speed trap" towns
while out touring.
Mounting The Servo
By far the easiest mounting is on
the 4 valve ABS I bikes. (K1, K100RS4V, 93 and earlier
K1100s) I just point the servo throttle cable to the right
and stick the CCS-100 mounting bracket in with the ABS
On my 94 ABS II K1100RS I just
have it loose under the seat. I run a Corbin seat on that
bike though. If you have an OEM seat pan then there probably
won't be enough room height-wise.
On LT/RT K bikes there should be
enough room in front of the right storage "bucket" inside of
the main fairing. That's where I mounted the servo in my
K1100LT. I zip-tied the CCS-100 mounting bracket to the main
fairing bracket and made a big loop in the servo cable
inside the fairing to take up the slack.
For other models of the 2 valve K
bikes (K100, K100RS, K75, K75C, K75S) I mount the servo in
the tail cowl and drill a hole for the servo cable in the
lower front right corner of the rear storage compartment.
Remove the two nuts from the
servo throttle cable end before passing it through the hole
and you don't need to drill as large of a hole. The servo
throttle cable can then be routed along the top right frame
rail. When you eventually put the seat back on,
make sure that the servo throttle cable is routed outside of
the forward seat hinge.
Once I've attached the wiring
harness I then bolt the servo mounting bracket on the nut
for the right bracket bolt at the bottom inside of the tail
I also know of someone with a
K1100LT who mounted the servo in the gap between the front
of the air box and the radiator. As noted previously, there
are many ways to skin this cat.
3a) Connecting Servo Throttle Cable - K75 or 2V K100
In the parts that come with the
CCS-100 you'll find two throttle attachment parts that look
like little hangman's nooses with a ball on the end. I use
the shorter one. I wrap it around the throttle bar where the
idle adjustment screw is. In order to make sure that it
stays in place I put a small zip-tie around it. Adding the
zip-tie to keep the noose in the same place is important.
Don't skip this step.
There are two little bead
connectors and a beaded chain that also come with the kit.
These are used to connect the hangman's noose to the servo
throttle cable. The connecting beads are pretty sturdy
little guys. Dikes (the nickname for diagonal cutters) can
be used to open them up so you can insert the beads.
Cut a string of four beads off of
the chain. Place one end of the bead on the end of the servo
throttle cable and put the end of the four-bead chain in one
of the beads. Then close it with firmly with some pliers or
gently with some Vice-Grips. Now run the servo throttle
cable over the air box with the servo cable towards the
front of the bike with respect to the factory throttle
Once you've threaded the servo
throttle and beads through the air plenum above the throttle
bodies, use the other bead to connect the beaded chain to
the ball on the hangman's noose.
Then, above the middle of the air
box, use the bracket below to fasten the servo throttle to
the factory throttle cable. Adjust the length of the servo
throttle cable so there's just a little slack at the beads.
On my most recent install like
this, (on a K100) I found that it was easiest to do this by
removing the top of the airbox first but it is possible to
do it with the airbox in place.
To be honest, this isn't an ideal
setup because once in a blue moon the servo throttle may get
stuck while riding but all you need to do is pull the clutch
in and blip the throttle a time or two and things will settle
back into place. However, it makes the install pretty easy.
If you prefer to fashion your own custom bracket or connect
the servo cable via another means then go for it.
3b) Connecting Servo Throttle Cable on a K100RS4V or K1100
I use one of the brackets that
comes with the CCS-100 and install it at the hole in the
plate on the left front corner of the frame. It's best just
to let pictures tell the story:
On my first install I drilled
another hole and used two bolts to secure the bracket to the
frame so it wouldn't drop down and let the cable saw through
the radiator hose but I don't bother with that anymore.
NOT overtighten the nuts at the end of the
servo cable. The threads at the end of the cable are made of
some very cheesy metal and that will break it you tighten
those nuts too much. Use thread locker instead.
I then wrap the small hangman's
noose connector around the throttle bar at the front blue
painted screw (Don't mess with that screw. Its position is
factory set.) and secure it in place with a small zip-tie.
If you don't secure it with the zip-tie then it can move
around and your throttle could get stuck open.
If you've installed the servo
under the seat then run the servo throttle cable up the
right frame rail, across the top of the radiator and down to
the bracket. Then cut a length of four beads from the beaded
chain that came with the kit and use the bead connectors to
hook it up to the hangman's noose and the end of the servo
throttle cable. Then, using the two nuts on the end of the
servo throttle cable hose adjust things so there's just a
tiny bit of slack in the cable. (The threaded part at the
end of the cable sheaf is made from some very cheesy metal
so be careful not to over-tighten those nuts and break that
threaded part off.)
3c) Connecting Servo Throttle Cable on a K1
Given the weird air hoses above
the throttle bodies on a K1 (what isn't weird about that
bike?) you can't install the servo throttle cable like you
can on the other 4 valve K bikes. What I ended up doing was
drilling a hole in the black plastic plate under the tank
right above where the factory throttle cable is and used
the nuts at the nd of the cable to mount it in that hole. I'm not a fan of mounting
that in plastic but it does work.
Then I used the hangman's noose
and the beads to attach the servo throttle cable as
described above for the other 4 valve bikes. Remember to
zip-tie it in place around the throttle bar.
4a) Using The Audiovox Control Pad
On my first few installs I used
the switch that came with the CCS-100. In order to
"waterproof" it I pried it apart and used some clear
silicone sealant to "glue" the rubber button sheet to the
front and then when putting it back together I sealed it
around the edges.
For mounting it I used some 2"
aluminum bar stock from the hardware store and made a little
"flag" mount that bolts in the mirror hole in the clutch
perch. See pictures below. I don't trust double stick tape
so I used some small machine screws to bolt it to the
mounting bracket. If you've got longish fingers like I do
then you can control the CCS-100 without even taking your
hand off of the clutch grip. (I bent the aluminum in a bench
vice. Aluminum is a brittle metal so it's a good idea
to pound it with a hammer while you're bending it to keep it
I'm no artist but you get the
4b) Using The K1100LT Windscreen Switch
On my first few CCS-100 installs,
I used the control pad that came with it. Even though I'd
filled the control switches with RTV to "waterproof" them,
eventually one of them leaked, shorted and failed.
Then I came up with the idea of using windscreen up/down
switch from a K1100LT to control the cruise control.
This has several advantages. First, it actually IS
waterproof since it was designed for a motorcycle. Next,
it's an OEM switch so it looks like it belongs there, unlike
the aftermarket look of the Audiovox control pad. Finally, it's
ergonomically more convenient to use.
For the 4 valve K bikes, the
connector for headlight, horn and turn signal is a
plug-n-play deal as the windscreen switch uses a separate
three wire connector. For K75s and 2 valve K100s there's a
little more work involved because you need to graft the
headlight/horn/turn signal wires of the windscreen switch to
the older K75/K100 left combination switch connector but
that's pretty simple since all of the wires are the same
The three wires (input, up and
down) for the windscreen switch go to a separate connector
so you can just cut that connector off and hook those wires
up to the servo. More on this later.
One difference between using the
windscreen switch and the Audiovox control pad is that the
Audiovox pad has an on/off switch. On my first
windscreen switch install I wired the CCS-100
brown power wire up to a K bike
dash switch. But I never used it because I just left
it on all of the time. I've since decided to just wire
that up to switched power so that the cruise control is
always on when the bike is turned on.
5.1a) Wiring The Servo
(and brown) CCS-100 wire:
This wire is the power wire to the cruise control. If you
remove your tank and look in the relay box you'll find a
round four wire white connector that (unless you have the
factory alarm) isn't connected to anything. The
green wire with a
brown stripe is switched power
for the alarm and comes from fuse 7 which also powers the
radiator fan and horn. Since the CCS-100 servo doesn't draw
much current I Posi-Tap into that
green/brown wire and
hook up the red (and brown) wire from the servo to that. By
tapping into this wire you eliminate the need to have a
separate in-line fuse for the CCS-100.
If you're mounting the servo in
the tail cowl then you could probably get away with tapping
into the power for the tail light. However, in the very
unlikely event that something goes haywire and the CCS-100
causes a short I'd rather have it blow the fan and horn fuse
than the brake and tail light fuse.
Black CCS-100 wire:
This is the ground wire for the CCS-100 servo. I usually
Posi-Tap that into the brown
ground wire for the factory alarm connector just to have the
two power wires on the same circuit. If you're mounting the
servo in the tail cowl you can optionally tap this into one
of the brown ground wires for
the rear lighting.
CCS-100 wire: This wire monitors the RPMs from one of
the ignition coils. Despite what the Audiovox instructions
emphatically state, you CAN cut this wire. However, you do
need to keep the filter (it's just a resistor) under the red
warning tag in the wire somewhere. Posi-Tap this wire into
the outer wire on the rear coil.
CCS-100 wire: Posi-Tap this wire into the wiring for the
rear brake switch under the right side battery cover. You
can tap into the wire on either side of the connector for
rear brake switch wire. Note that this wire internally
connects to the front brake switch wiring as well so using
either the front or rear brake will cause the CCS-100 to
disengage. (See the Appendix A at the bottom if you
have an LED brake light.)
and yellow CCS-100 wires:
These wires are for the up (resume/accel/tap up) and down
(set/coast/tap down) buttons. The
yellow wire is for up and the
green one is for down. The buttons send 12V+ to the
servo "brain" when pressed. Following subsections describe
how to wire each type of switch.
The Wiring on a K75 or 2V K100
I encase all of the wires from the
control unit in an approximately 2 1/2 foot long section of
heat shrink tubing to bundle and protect them. (You don't
need to heat shrink it.) I run this out of the left turn
signal wiring hole in the lower left corner of the tail cowl
and then zip-tie the bundle to the left frame rail under the
tail cowl, similar to how the factory tail light wiring runs
along the right frame rail. Then, up near the battery,
I split off the various wires to where they need to go.
In order for the rear fender to
fit on the right rear corner of the frame, I cut a U for the
wiring bundle here:
5.2a) Wiring the Audiovox switch
gray wire is for switch backlighting. I don't
think that matters so I just cut if off. You can hook it
up to a switched power source if you feel like it. If
you want to be able to turn the CCS-100 power on and off
then you can connect the four wires as described in the
CCS-100 installation manual. (Appendix C at the bottom
of this page.) I prefer just to have the cruise control
be on all of the time by having switched power from the
bike go straight to the red
brown wires of the CCS-100 servo.
However, you'll still need to
feed power to the brown
wire of the control pad for the up and down buttons.
Connect the brown wire from
the control panel to the Posi-Tap you placed on the
green wire with a
brown stripe of the alarm
connector in the relay box. Connect the
green wires from the
control to the corresponding wires to the servo. I
usually use Posi-Locks or Posi-Twists for these
5.2b) Wiring The
The BMW windscreen switch
has a three wire connector. Cut that connector off
and connect the wires as follows with either
Posi-Locks or Posi-Twists:
Windscreen Switch Wire
Posi-Tap to green/brown
wire of alarm connector
6) Install The Vacuum Hose
The CCS-100 will not operate
correctly unless you have a vacuum check valve installed
in the vacuum hose from the throttle bodies to the
servo. The black end should be pointed towards the
throttle bodies and the white end should be pointed
towards the CCS-100 servo. Cut off 3-4" of the vacuum
hose that comes with the CCS-100 and slide it over the
black end of the vacuum check valve. Take the
remaining vacuum hose and slide it over the white
end of the vacuum check valve. You'll notice that the
white tube from the vacuum check valve is a little small
for the vacuum hose. There's several ways to get it to
Being careful not to get any in the hole in the end of
it, use some silicone or RTV sealant to glue the vacuum
hose onto the vacuum check valve's white tube. This is
how I usually do it.
Put a layer or two of electrical tape around the
white tube to increase its diameter.
Put a layer or two of heat shrink tubing around
the white tube to increase its diameter.
Remove one of the small
black rubber caps from one of the throttle bodies
(it doesn't matter which one) and attach the short
vacuum hose to the little brass tube on the throttle
body. Being careful that it is not pinched or
kinked, route the vacuum hose to the CCS-100 servo
and connect it to the servo.
When I install servo in the
tail cowl then I usually run the vacuum hose along the
left frame rail and through the hole for the left rear
turn signal wires. I attach it with zip-ties that are
left slightly loose so as not to pinch the vacuum hose.
If you find that the length
of vacuum hose that came with the CCS-100 is inadequate
then take a piece of the vacuum hose to the nearest auto
parts store and buy another 5 or 6 feet. It's a standard
generic item that only costs about a quarter/foot. Ask
at the counter, they usually have it on reels in the
7) Testing the CCS-100
Time to button things up and
go for a ride. You can't really test the CCS-100 on the
center stand because when the cruise control engages
the RPMs will surge and the safety feature of the
CCS-100 that detects RPMs surges will disengage it.
You need to have the RPMs up above 2,500 or so - but you
should be riding in that range anyhow. Holding either
the up or down button for a second or two should set the
cruise control and have you traveling at a constant
safety feature - Pull in the clutch while the
cruise control is engaged. Almost instantaneously the
cruise should disengage when it senses a sudden surge in
RPMs. Hopefully it never happens to you but this should
also disengage the cruise control in the event that you
ever have a getoff.
brake - The cruise should disengage when the
front brake switch is activated.
brake - The cruise should disengage when the rear
brake switch is activated.
- Set it again. Holding the up button for a
second or so should yield about a 1 MPH speed increase.
Down - Holding the bottom button down for a
second or so should yield about a 1 MPH speed decrease.
Tap up and tap down can be used to fine tune your
Tap the down button once quickly and the cruise
control should disengage.
Accelerate - Pressing the up button and keeping
it depressed should slowly increase your speed until you
let it go.
Decelerate - Pressing the down button down and
keeping it depressed should slowly decrease your speed.
If something goes wrong with
the cruise control then just pull in the clutch, hit the
kill switch and pull over. One thing to note is that
when you hit the kill switch on a K bike that also kills
the brake light circuit so any cars behind you won't
know when you're braking.
Appendix A: LED Brake Light
I run LED brake and tail
lights in my K bikes. It's easy to do by eliminating the
BMU (black bulb monitor unit on the left side of the
relay box.) All you have to do is short the wiring as
Short the front brake switch wire (Gray/Red)
and the rear brake switch wire (Gray/Green)
to the brake light (Gray/Yellow.)
Short the tail light/parking light power (Gray/White)
to the tail light wire (Gray/Black)
However, the CCS-100 won't
work with an LED brake light bulb. It's easy to make it
work with an LED bulb though. All you need to do is hook
the purple wire up to a
normally closed relay so that the
purple wire is grounded until you hit the brakes.
If you're using a standard
automotive Bosch type relay (a.k.a. 5-terminal relay)
then wire the relay up as follows:
rear brake switch wire
Purple wire to
Or you can do what I do
and make your own
waterproof micro relay.
Side note: Eliminating the BMU to run LED
tail and brake lighting removes the BMU's safety
feature of checking the brake switches.
However, installing a cruise control unit brings
that back to a certain extent in that if you ever
determine that your front or rear brake doesn't
disengage the cruise control as it should then it
most likely means that brake switch has gone bad. Or
if you find that the cruise control doesn't
engage as it should then it may be due to a faulty
brake switch. This happened to one of my K75s
Appendix B: Installation "Cheat Sheet"
Here's a "cheat sheet"
that you can print out and take to the garage. Click
on the thumbnail below to have it open in a new tab
Here's a PDF of the
Audiovox CCS-100 installation manual:
© 2019 Drake Smith - Please do
not use or reproduce this elsewhere. Feel free to link
to it though.