Using the screen removal tool pry
up the bottom center of the screen frame from the inside.
Then work around the outside of the frame to separate the
frame from the body of the TomTom.
Then carefully pop the display
out of the frame.
Step 3: Cut and remove the speaker wires
Since you're not going to hear it
anyhow, I take the circuit board out and cut the wires from
the speaker and unplug the other end from the circuit board.
(Just in case the speaker ever gets wet and might decide to
The circuit board is held on by
three small Phillips screws. One is hiding under the
The other two are hiding in plain
Speaker wire removed.
Step 4: Replace battery (optional)
The battery is held to the
back of the TomTom by double-sided tape. Just pry it
off, unplug it from the circuit board and then install
the replacement battery.
Step 5: Install the fishing leader
Although the handlebar mount
is pretty secure it's not foolproof in case you bump
into it or whatever. Therefore I use the fishing leader
as a "leash" to catch the TomTom in case it gets
dismounted. I just put the loop around the
handlebar mount so if it does come out of the handlebar
mount the leash is there to save it.
To start with I put a short
section of heat shrink tubing to keep the loop open.
Then drill two tiny holes
next to each other in the back of the case near the
Then I feed the other end of
the leash in from the back and then back out before
passing the other end through that end to complete the
Step 6: Reassemble the TomTom
Prior to reassembly put a
big dollop of clear RTV where the leash passes
Before snapping the
unit back together place copious amounts of
clear RTV around the inner and outer edges of
the frame in order to "waterproof" around the
When put back together it
will look something like this big mess.
Reinstall the two Torx
screws on the bottom and then let it sit overnight
to let the RTV cure.
Once the RTV has cured
you can rub off the excess with your thumb and
fingers. In order to avoid damaging it, do not apply
too much pressure to the TomTom's touchscreen when
removing the excess RTV. Take your time and do
In order to provide switched
12V power to the USB power supply I tap into the brown
wire (ground) and green/brown wire (switched 12V via
Fuse 7) of the white alarm connector in the relay box
under the rear of the tank.
On a K75S or K100RS the mount
will attach to the handlebar without having to cut or
mutilate the dash pad.
On a K1100RS or K100RS4V you
need to cut a square notch into the handlebar cover in
order to accommodate the handlebar mount.
On a K1100LT you can throw
away the back part of the handlebar mount and mount the
remainder using two M4 screws.
TomTom: Old maps and addresses that you can't enter
The TomTom maps that come on
your XL or XXL will probably be from 2012-2014.
There are newer maps available but these units only have
2GB of internal memory and the newer maps won't fit
because they're larger than 2GB. (At least for the US &
Canada map set.) For the most part roads don't
change that often so having slightly out of date maps is
not a big deal to me.
Another issue with TomToms is
sometimes they won't let you enter the exact address
you're looking for. (As I stated at the outset the
old TomTom software is of mediocre quality.)
However, when that happens to me I use a free website on
my phone or PC that converts addresses to latitude and
longitude and then navigate to that lat/lon and that has
always worked so far.
Custom car icons:
TomTom lets you use custom
car icons. (Stored in the art/cars directory of the
TomTom's memory.) Here's a few BMW/riding ones I
made that you can right click on to download:
|Winding Road Sign
|K1100RS or K100RS
Tripmaster v3.1 Software:
The Tripmaster free software
can be downloaded at this link:
You'll need to download the
files at both of these links:
Once you've downloaded and
unzipped those files you'll need to hook up the TomTom
to a PC with a USB mini cable and load the following
directories and file to the root directory of the