These are just some "quick & dirty" notes relating to
checking/adjusting the valves on a K100RS4V, K1 or K1100.
More complete instructions can be found in the BMW and
Here's 3 pages from the BMW K1100
service manual on checking/adjusting valves:
And here's a "cheat sheet" I use
when doing valves:
And here are links to a couple of
write-ups at the IBMWR K Bike Tech Pages:
Bike Valves: The valves on these bikes are
"bucket" type valves. You adjust the valves on these
engines by swapping in different thickness buckets.
They vary in thickness from 2.5
mm to 3.2 mm in increments of 0.05 mm and, as of December
2013, cost about $22 each.
BMW Part #
The engine should be cold when
checking valve clearances. Ideally below 80 degrees F.
On the last ride before doing the
valves, it's a good idea to turn the bike off and then tilt
it to the right for about 15-20 seconds to minimize the
amount of oil that will leak out when you remove the valve
cover. Then put it on the center stand.
When removing the valve cover
place a long drain pan or some towels underneath it as oil
will drip down when you remove it.
Do not mess with the spark plugs
when doing the valves as carbon deposits can fall into the
exhaust valves and lead to erroneous readings.
With the bike in fifth gear, you
can rock the rear wheel to rotate the engine to move the
valve cams. Each valve clearance should be checked
when the lobe of the cam is pointing directly out from the
valve. For the intake valves this is roughly 25-30 degrees
up and for the exhaust valves pointing down 25-30 degrees.
Swapping Valve Buckets:
Zip-tie the valve cam sprockets
to the timing chain to keep the timing correct.
Before loosening the valve cam
guides you need to depress the cam chain tensioner behind
the blanking plug in the middle of the timing cover.
You can use BMW special tool
112640 to do this. However, I found that using a bit
driver and a piece of rope over the lower fork tree you can
keep the cam chain tensioner depressed without the need for
that special tool. Here's a picture of when I experimented
with this on a parts engine:
Note that the cam chain tensioner
is ratcheted so you're not trying to move it down, just hold
it down enough so that it doesn't move up.
Replacing The Valve Cover:
When doing this it's a good idea
to replace the valve cover gasket with a new one - part
I use Permatext
Form-a-Gasket No.2. You do not need to use sealant on the
entire gasket. Just place a light film of it on the surfaces
of the "half moons" on the gasket and then a small dab at
each of the seams in front where the cylinder head meets the
Get all of the valve cover bolts
installed finger tight. Then, starting from the center,
follow an "X-outward" pattern to torque them to spec.
DO NOT over-tighten the
valve cover bolts. They are "shoulder" type bolts that
can only go in so far so if you attempt to tighten them too
much their threads will strip.
© 2013 Drake Smith - Please do
not use or reproduce this elsewhere. Feel free to link
to it though.